
India is a very aggressive place. The languages are loud and harsh. The plants have evolved to have extra thorns and poison. The ants sting and cause swelling. The heat sucks every ounce of water out of you. Every species has adapted to fight, barter, and bargain for survival.
In a place like India, people consistently have to strap up their courage and self-worth in order to provide for themselves or their family. They have to run after buses in order to catch them, put their arms out in front of on-coming traffic so they won’t be run over, and bargain for a decent price on everything! What India didn’t know was that I was born into a family of bargainers. My dad taught me to find gold at the bottom of trash bins and at garage sales. My mom taught me to snap my fingers before I went into a mall so that 75% off clearance signs would appear. We cut coupons and secretly love anything second-hand.
In Indian markets, I would happily get into the bargaining game with the merchants. It would look something like this:
“How much is this shirt,” I would ask.
“Ah, for you, special deal. Only 450 rupees.”
“450? That’s crazy! So expensive,” I’d snap.
“But it’s nice quality. Look at this fabric and this dye . . . tikka, tikka. What will you give me?”
“Umm . . . 50 rupees.”
“No m’am! Naie. That is less than I get it for. This is so much fabric and then the workers!” The storeowner shows a bit of frustration and vengeance for a bit, I smile back, and then he says, “ How about 250 rupees?”
“Naie. Naie. Too much. Too much.” I do the traditional, Indian, sideways nod and hand flick. Hesitate for a little while and walk around. Then, I ask “What is your best price?”
“Ma’am. 150 at least.”
So the game could go on for a bit ending with me receiving the shirt for 100 rupees. This game is fun for me, but often after leaving the shop, the hostel, the restaurant, or the tuk tuk, my conscious would appear wreaking vengeance on my ego-driven bargain. Often I would think, “What about promoting fair trade? You will buy a four dollar fair-trade chocolate bar in the US to promote social equity, but you won’t pay an extra fifty cents here for a shirt who was most likely made by someone who works for $2.50 per day?” There are numerous times in India, where I felt quite torn between getting the best deal and supporting a worker.
The night that I left south India, the gods helped me put my bargaining ego in check. I was in a small town called Kundapura waiting for my 2am train. As dusk approached, I began walking toward the station. I wanted the fresh air and exercise before the long journey, so I decided not to pay a tuk tuk 60 rupees ($1.30) to drive me the five kilometers out of town to the station. I calculated that the walk should take me just over an hour with my big backpack, and the worst case scenario would be that I would take out my headlamp for the last fifteen minutes if it got dark.
I walked and walked, slowly, slowly and I enjoyed watching the birds, the ladies in the rice paddies, and the kids playing cricket. After about an hour, the sky was becoming dim and I started asking locals through broken English and body language how much farther. They said it was a long way, one kilometer. In my mind, one kilometer is not much, so I continued to trek on.
After another fifteen minutes, large winds blew big, ominous, grey clouds to the horizon. I asked again how far away I was, and I received the same answer, one kilometer. Beginning to worry a bit about the time, the arriving darkness and the clouds, I looked around for a tuk tuk. (This is a long winding rural street with very few shops, homes or vehicles.)
I found a lonely tuk tuk next to a chai shop and asked the driver how much it would cost. He said 20 rupees. My normal bargaining routine began . . . 20 rupees is way too much for a one kilometer drive! He wouldn’t budge so I walked away proudly. After about thirty seconds of stomping away with my head high, I looked back to see the driver buzzing off the opposite direction. I was quite disappointed that he didn’t change his mind and come after me.
This left me with one option. I needed to start walking faster. The sky was getting dark fast, the clouds were turning black and getting closer, and I swore that I saw lightning. I walked quickly and kept my thoughts optimistic. In fact, I decided to begin singing . . . there’s no way that it would rain on me if I was singing! The clouds were nearing and becoming very aggressive–tall, with deep black pockets. I saw another tuk tuk coming my way so I stopped to get a price. He said 40 rupees. My ego roared! I thought, “Are you kidding me? If I wouldn’t pay 20 rupees five minutes ago, why would I pay 40 rupees now?” I tried to bargain to no avail. I gave him the good ol’ Indian hand flick, and he sped off without a second thought. My ego was in shock; two times in a row that the driver’s decided not to fall for my smile and fake aggression! So, looking at the night sky behind me and the rolling blackish-purple clouds in front of me, I got out my headlamp and walked . . . VERY QUICKLY.
I wasn’t fast enough. Within minutes, the clouds were on top of me erupting with lightning, thunder and heavy rain drops. I ran to the closest structure . . . a bus stop that was packed with stranded bicyclers, men from the chai shop down the road, and a couple of motorcycle passengers who were also looking for refuge. I was the only woman. I was the only white person. I was the only one who had no idea how much farther I really had to go or how I was going to get there. And, I was the only one who didn’t speak Kannada.
I sat perched on the far wall of this bus stand looking out at the black sky. It was quite magical actually. The thick lightning bolts would light up the sky, making the coconut trees across the street glitter and the backdrop turn bright purple. I tried to stay calm and optimistic, but my ego kept yelling, “What was I thinking? I’m stuck in this bus stand in the dark, surrounded by Indian men. Who knows how long this storm will stay in? What if the muddy road becomes impassible? That thunder is really loud. What is the likelihood that I would get electrocuted while sitting in a concrete bus stand? Are these men aggressive and crazy and likely to rape me? Why would I put myself in this position to save a bloody fifty cents!!?”
After about thirty minutes, the rain lightened enough to step out to see the sky and the road. Like my knight in shining army, a yellow and black tuk tuk was puttering down the road toward me. I hailed it and got in without asking the price. He drove me three minutes down the road, some of it quite muddy, and I gladly paid him 40 rupees.
The End. True Story.